TIGERLILY FASHION:INTRODUCING JAMES LON LEE
Fashion often transcends the everyday clothes that we live in. The jeans, the t-shirts and the trusty flats, but it can also be an art form. More theory and idea than practical clothing.
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Tigerlily spoke to emerging designer James Chino Lon Lee from Seoul, South Korea about his new collection, Justine.
Sitting on some steps enjoying the rare British sunshine, I ask James about what inspired his new collection.
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“My collection is based on the books, Justine and Juliette by Marquis de Sade. They become orphaned because their parents kill themselves. Justine goes to church and tries to reclaim herself to her gods but she starts getting into all kinds of crazy orgies and situations but she still believes in God and believes in herself.”
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Marquis de Sade was a late 18th century, early 19th century author, politician and revolutionary. He was famous for his liberal attitude towards sex and sexuality.
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James goes on to explain how he came to find inspiration for his creations from literature. He said:“I felt like I could relate to her, not that I’ve been having orgies or anything like that.”
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We pause to laugh, but his tone intensifies as he starts to describe his journey starting from South Korea, travelling across the globe and settling in the UK.
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"In the sense of her keeping on going to find where she finds comfortable. I am trying to do the same, I want to stay in the UK or anywhere with a western culture. I wanted to create clothing that could portray my emotions.”
He also explains that during his artistic process, the collection has changed and has become more focused on feminism.
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“It has changed a bit and has become quite a feminist collection. I also read a book called Women In Clothes’( by Heidi Julavits, Leanne Shapton and Sheila Heti) which is hundreds of women being interviewed about how they feel in their clothes. The book also deals with what it’s like to be catcalled because of your clothes."
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"So with this collection I wanted to feel more like a woman, and wanted to create a collection that is for everyone. I also created an alter ego of a Korean Justine, a modern woman, to show that women are still oppressed in that society.”
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James clearly puts a lot of thought and artistic drive into his pieces. But after all, fashion is meant to be worn and to be seen on the human body. I ask James how his ideas translate physically into the pieces and how they are worn.
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“I wanted to create a silhouette so that when someone is standing still the clothes aren’t revealing. But when walk they show body parts, not like couture style showing a slit up the leg but the person’s sides and collar bone.”
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International Focus
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A sketch of Justine by James Lon Lee
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James has plans to start a business here in UK, acting as a buyer for his own boutique store or bookshop that houses pieces from all over the world.
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It’s clear that James’ designs are inspired by a strong artistic current and deviate wonderfully from considerations of practicality that the basic function of clothing was created to serve.
This emerging designer’s focus is clearly international from Seoul, to French literature to Glasgow where he currently lives. We haven’t seen the last of James Lon Lee.
